![]() 07/26/2017 at 11:31 • Filed to: None | ![]() | ![]() |
In 17mm. $24 with shipping.
I discovered and used Hazet tools when I lived in Germany in the late 80s. Wrenches, I have come to know, are not created equally.
![]() 07/26/2017 at 11:41 |
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I have to buy a 36mm socket soon. By coincidence, it costs $36.
Then I’ll probably never use it again
![]() 07/26/2017 at 11:42 |
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That’s what I thought when I bought a thin wall 30mm for VANOS solenoids. But then it turned out I needed it for the axle nut on my e30.
![]() 07/26/2017 at 11:54 |
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replacing a wheel bearing?
![]() 07/26/2017 at 12:10 |
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just curious. why not rent from Autozone?
I only buy tools I will use more than once. Otherwise I rent or borrow.
![]() 07/26/2017 at 12:13 |
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That is a very commonly used wrench size and the two 17mm wrenches I had I sawed in half to make shorties out of.
![]() 07/26/2017 at 12:18 |
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Bingo!
![]() 07/26/2017 at 12:43 |
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That’s going to be fun. My ZHP wants that tightend to something like 200 lbs-ft. Although you get to use my all-time favorite tool, the slide hammer.
![]() 07/26/2017 at 13:12 |
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Yeah, that’s the torque specs for it. I need to buy a long pipe for that kind of leverage. That or go to my friends house and use his impact to break it loose. Not even sure that would do it though. It couldn’t break loose a crank pulley bolt. Not sure if it was over torqued from the factory, or it just wasn’t powerful enough.
![]() 07/26/2017 at 13:28 |
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I got mine off with a cordless impact rated at 600lbs-ft the last time. You’ll want to get a new nut with it, you have to deform the collar on it after you tighten it down(you just need a flathead screwdriver and a hammer to deform it after you’ve tightened it). And make sure you have a slide hammer. I know it’s possible to get it out without one, but I have no idea why you’d want to.
IIRC I’ve also gotten it off in the past with a cheater bar and a hammer, it *should* be protected from the environment by a dust cap, so it really doesn’t get much in the way of corrosion. Also, get a new dust cap, those sometimes rust weld themselves to the hub and need to be removed destructively.
![]() 07/26/2017 at 13:44 |
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10, 13 and 15 mm are my most common sizes. After that 17,19 and 21
Basically, what I was saying was - if you only needed one wrench, just rent it. Otherwise buy a set and don’t pay another ~30 for another wrench.
set of 16 wrenches is about 260 bucks. Works out to be about 16.25 ea
![]() 07/26/2017 at 13:49 |
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Right. Though I’m working on a Mitsubishi Montero right now that uses the even sizes...
My toolbox is a hodgepodge that I gathered years ago with every wrench and socket having a
provenance
.
![]() 07/26/2017 at 14:10 |
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Thanks for the tips! I need a cordless impact anyway. Had no idea the were rated that high these days.
![]() 07/26/2017 at 14:36 |
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They actually go well beyond that now, this is the updated version of the one I have, it now does 700 lbs-ft with a peak of 1100 lbs-ft.
I’ve been nothing but impressed with my Milwaukee cordless impact wrench, I don’t think I’ve ever gotten the battery below 2/4 LEDs lit, even after removing the rear subframe from my ZHP, which requires removing a large number of big-ass bolts that haven’t moved in a decade or longer. And it popped every single one of them off in 15 seconds or less(including the axle nut).
Just if/when you get one, make sure you get the friction ring tip, not the pin detent. For the first year or so you’ll hate me for telling you to get it because until it breaks in it’s a bitch to get sockets on and off. But after it’s broken in sockets go on and off like butter and it’s much more robust than the pin detent.
![]() 07/27/2017 at 05:34 |
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17mm is only even when you add or remove 1 mm :P
You do you, my friend. Don’t let PartyPoopers stop ya